Tiffany Hsu, fashion buying director at Mytheresa, agrees: “If the brand is purely based on rotating designers it might be slightly inconsistent for both buyers and clients as it is hard to establish a DNA for the brand. In my opinion, a brand needs to have a solid core business that is well established before they start collaborating with rotating designers.” Mytheresa sells Off-White and Moncler.
Moncler generates no more than 5 to 10 per cent of its business from Genius, according to chairman and CEO Remo Ruffini. “Genius is the perfect example of a platform that is more measured on connection and community-building than on revenue,” says Gino Fisanotti, Moncler chief brand officer. “We want to keep it that way. Sometimes, when you try to just push the business on something, it starts to lose its core and its cool.”
Jean Paul Gaultier, which is owned by Puig, derives 100 per cent of its couture sales from this model, according to the brand, but these sales are hugely outstripped by the fragrance and ready-to-wear businesses (the latter was relaunched a year ago). For AZ Factory, following the tragically early death of Alber Elbaz in April 2021, it’s become the full business model.
LVMH-owned Pucci tried the rotational model briefly following the departure of designer Massimo Giorgetti in 2017. The company worked with Koché, Tomo Koizumi and Supreme before returning to a policy of continuity, appointing Camille Miceli as artistic director in September 2021.
Experts remain cautious about backing the rotational approach. “It’s a good choice to keep interest in the brand — I loved Sacai’s JPG couture collection,” says Sarah Andelman, founder of consultancy firm Just An Idea, formally of concept store Colette. “But, there are certain limitations: designers are already very busy with their own brand and need to dedicate enough time. Also, the number of young designers that are a good match for a specific brand is not unlimited. After a while, you have covered it all.”
From the perspective of emerging design talents, the opportunity to work as a guest designer is very beneficial, says Sophie Brocart, CEO of Patou and LVMH Prize mentoring director. “It gives them visibility, credibility, money and the opportunity to work with a studio and atelier.”
They enjoy it. “Designers are having a blast creatively. The model is the opportunity for them to dive into the DNA of a brand, without any constraints, without having to tackle a rebranding. It’s a visit,” says PR veteran Lucien Pagès, whose clients include Sacai, Y Project and AZ Factory. Pagès notes that many designers of his generation grew up adoring Jean Paul Gaultier and watching his fashion shows on TV.
All eyes, for now, are on AZ Factory. Magugu and Manas are the first two guest amigos. Magugu’s one-off collection will go on sale in June, with Manas to follow in the autumn. Ultimately, it will be the consumer who will decide whether the rotational designer concept can work.
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